Inlay
Weaving
This technique uses a simple weaving
style, but instead of weaving a separate
piece and sewing it to form a garment,
you will be cutting your main fashion
fabric to form the "warp".
You can use any fabric, but best results
are achieved with a firmly woven cotton
(there will be a "raw" look
to your piece), or a synthetic suede
such as UltraSuede® or FabuLeather®,
with no "raveling".
Materials
- Your favorite pattern that
has straight simple lines. A
vest is easy, but look to see
if you have a plain "camp" shirt
that would look good with some
weaving.
- Fabric for the garment -
plus fabric
for the weaving. This can be
scraps of fabric that coordinate
or contrast your main fabric.
- Lightweight
fusible knit interfacing. (Enough
to cover the woven area).
- Scissors
(with a sharp point).
- Rotary Cutter & Ruler.
- Water
Soluble Marking Pen (chalk marker
if using dark fabric).
- Tacky Glue
(Aleene’s Thick
Designer recommended).
- Pencil
with eraser tip.
For simplicity’s sake I’ll
be showing a vest. Use the technique
to apply to any simple garment. |
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Step
1
Cut your vest fronts and back
out of your fashion fabric. Set
aside back for now.

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Step
2
Determine the colors you will
use to weave. Try picking colors
that compliment or contrast your
vest fabric.
Step 3
With rotary cutter and mat, cut
your fabrics for weaving into strips.
Cut strips from 1/2" to 1" wide. |
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Step
4
On the wrong side of your vest
front, mark your placement lines
for making your "warp".
Lay your ruler along the vest
front about 1-1/2" away from
the raw edge. Mark along the raw
edge using your water soluble pen
or chalk marker.
Using the "V" of the
neckline as a guide, draw a line
3" away from your first line.
You should now have a 3" wide
area for weaving.
At each end mark a line 1-1/2"
inside the vest raw edge. You should
end up with a “box” like
the one pictured here. |
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Step
5
Using your rotary cutter and
ruler "strip" your
"box" every 1/2".
Start 1/2" away from your
placement line, cut a strip 1/2" wide
being careful to stop at your end
markers.
Start your next line 1/2" away
from the last one cut. You should
end up with 5 cuts.
Cut all the way to your end marker
at the shoulder seam. Carefully
cut to the line with sharp pointed
scissors or an art knife.
Note: You should NOT have
cut the outside lines of the box,
these are your placement lines. |
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| Step
6 - Weaving
Beginning at the shoulder edge,
start your first strip of color,
weaving over and under the base
strips.
You always want the ends
of your weaving strips to come
up on the wrong side. One side
of the weaving strip will automatically
end up on the wrong side, the other
end needs some help.
Remember your
placement lines? You are now going
to cut one side of that the same
width of the strip you just wove.
At the end where your strip is
sticking out on the right side
of your fabric, make a slash along
the placement line the width of
your weaving strip only.
Tuck the
end through the slash and now both
ends are on the wrong side. Trim
the ends so that they hang over
the placement line 1/2".
Dab a dot of glue on the ends and
tack down to the wrong side of
the vest front. |
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Continue
weaving, alternating the strips
and weaving over and under the
opposite direction of the last
strip. Keep in mind you will also
be slashing opposite ends of each
strip that is woven.
Using the Eraser on your pencil,
keep the strips pushed together.
You want them to lay flat and straight.
The eraser helps grab the strips
and move them next to the previous
one.
Weave all the way to the bottom
of your placement lines. It will
gradually taper to nothing. Do
not weave past your lines, when
you can’t weave in another
strip, STOP.
Weave the other vest front in
the same manner. |
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Finishing
Cut a piece of fusible knit interfacing
large enough to cover your weaving.
Fuse to the wrong side over the
weave work.
From the right side, sew a line
of topstitching on either side
of the weaving. This will help
keep the little "tab ends" from
coming un-woven.
You may also want
to sew a few random straight lines
through the woven area to secure
it to the interfacing, and make
it more durable during laundering. |
Assemble
vest as per your pattern’s
instructions!

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